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Glimpses of the Misty East

The rare book, Views in the Himala Mountains, that captures the legendary James Baillie Fraser's expedition to become the first ever European to reach the Gangotri, has now been reproduced in its entirety. By Ektaa Malik

James went on to be the first ever European to cross the Jumna and the Bhagirathi Valleys and reach the Gangotri — the legendary source of the Ganges, very mythical in its appeal

Mountains have a sense of comfort about them. They stand sturdy, solid to the touch. They stand tall conversing with the skies, in defiant splendour. In India, their importance is of epic proportions. Many peaks in the Himalayan Range are said to be the abode of the gods. It’s no wonder that many have tried to scale these peaks, enchanted by the challenge or just fascinated by the journey

It was the year 1815 when two brothers set out to explore these stately environs. James Baillie Fraser hailed from Scotland, and after trying his hand unsuccessfully at trade in Guyana, he came to India. He tried business here but finally gave in to wander lust, his true calling. He travelled to Delhi, to meet his brother William, whom he had not met for 16 years. At that time, William Fraser had been appointed a political agent with the British Forces for the war with the Ghurkhas

After the War ended the two brothers embarked on a sojourn, disguised, wearing the clothes of the local Ghurkhas to unveil the world of the snow capped peaks and find out where the mighty Ganges originated from. In the middle of the expedition, William was called back for his official duties. But James carried on. He travelled with his sketchbook in hand, capturing the changing topography. The acute observations made by James Frazer later served to be the stepping stones to cartography in Asia

The paintings and sketches of James Frazer are life like in detail. James went on to be the first ever European to cross the Jumna and the Bhagirathi Valleys and reach the Gangotri — the legendary source of the Ganges, very mythical in its appeal. His paintings and sketches recreate the mystique that’s tantamount to the Himalayas. The illustrations succeed in transporting one back almost 250 years.

The paintings not just render a vivid sight of mountain scenery, but also showcase glimpses of mountain life and culture prevalent in the Himalayan region. A lone semi clad ascetic stands on the banks of a river, his hands folded as he pays his respects to the life giving river. The colours range from the golden red hue of the sky at sunrise, to the pearly blue of a gurgling stream. Every aquatint has a fragile, ethereal feel to it. Maybe it is, for the world that existed 200 ago is now no longer present.

These extensive travels and explorations then resulted in the glorious volume titled Views in the Himala Mountains published in the year 1820 by Rodwell and Martin, London. This volume contained 20 of the most captivating hand coloured engravings by James Fazer and W Havell, an artist from Calcutta who was roped in by Frazer to engrave the illustrations for the book. The book is now a collectible item, and till date remains one of the most noteworthy works to be ever done on the Himalayas.

Views in the Himala Mountains is now reproduced in its entirety, in the original format with additional text from Robert Hutchinson, an expert on the said region. While a foreword comes from William Dalrymple.

The book is now available again, and was launched at the Imperial Hotel by Dr. Karan Singh in the National Capital. Speaking at the launch, William Dalrymple highlighted the relationship that the two brothers had with India. “They broke all stereotypes of colonial rule in India. William was a scholar of Persian, and a great friend of Ghalib’s. James painted India as he saw it, and fell in love with it. Both the brothers did not eat meat, and did not drink alcohol; such was the impact of this country and culture on them,” says the celebrated author.

Elaborating on the contribution of the Frazer Brothers, Robert Hutchinson says “The two brothers made the discovery of Gangotri, and all they had in the name of equipment was a small compass. The works of James Frazer set the tone for the further explorations Indian temples. It’s Frazer who first describe Lakhamandal and the Temple of Bheem in his works. James’s amateurism was perfectly accurate .The sketches are a precise account of his many travels”.

Some of these paintings have been a part of the rich heritage collection that is present in the Imperial Hotel. These paintings are now also part of the reproduced volume of the book. The works of James Baillie Frazer are still on display at The Imperial adding to its rich aura that’s seeped in history.

The book is published by Meera Singh Akoi and Ashok Aggarwal of Parag Books, and 400 copies are available for sale.